When attempting to walk the Irish Border, the first challenge is finding it. I trample through chest-high grass along Lough Foyle, forging a path towards a metre-wide stream which must surely be it. It feels like uncharted territory and, for a moment, I indulge myself with the thought that this must be how it feels to be an explorer.
Around here my phone, and a map, are of no real use. An app suggests I’m in the water, with the grey line of the Border somewhere on land. Technology has failed, this is an unmapped journey.
The river leads inland towards the village of Muff in Donegal, one of a series of settlements which mark the Border as it circles Derry city.
In some of these villages, about half of the residents are originally from the North, but were attracted over the Border in the mid-2000s by cheaper house prices.







